Authentic restaurants and groceries lined the streets, giving the impression that you were not in a ‘Koreatown’, you were in Korea. Around the corner, however, taxi cabs race past flocks of Western foreigners in bars and cafés, chatting away nonchalantly with their fellow ‘aliens’ – you were at New York.
Amidst this entire culture clash, were the locals, adding up to the already chaotic mixture of people, a mixture that gave the area an unrecognizable quality, a familiar, yet foreign atmosphere. I then stretched the rest of the day exploring these streets as a tourist in my own country, camera hanging around my neck, enjoying the company of foreigners and locals alike. And I ended up being taught a lesson in the process.
The Streets
Expectations of an area bustling with Korean life were not met. Instead, we were faced with just a few corners of rather empty streets save for the cars parked at the side in front of various stores – a disappointing first impression, I must say. A deeper exploration into smaller side streets, however, erased any disappointments, revealing the reason behind its nickname ‘Koreatown’ at the same time.
Low-rise residential buildings sit next to each other with Korean businesses ranging from the usual grill restaurant to the unexpected salons and optical shops at the ground floors. Upon entrance into one of them, the familiarity of the customers with the store employees shows an easing sense of a small, tight, Korean community. Not to mention the presence of Korean goods everywhere, catchy K-pop music playing in store radios, and the numerous advertisements of Korean stars, gives the feeling as though you’ve been transported to Korea yourself.
A turn and a small alley away into a busier street takes you to world of bars, clubs, and hotels where Americans and Europeans dominate the scene – an unexpected sight. Mediterranean-themed restaurants and cafés with open terraces to accommodate smokers and drinkers that surround this side – the so-called ‘red district’, a more suitable place for the adults.
In the background of all this, I spot the locals going about with their usual business as street vendors, traffic enforcers, and store employees and I could not help but wonder: what do they think of these foreigners invading their territory?
The Filipinos
Sharon, 31, prepared the ingredients of our bibimbap (a signature Korean dish of rice with vegetables and meat topped with a raw egg mixed all together upon serving. see image for reference) that day at Donu Pork and Beef Grill in Polaris Street. Her Korean employer looked after the cashier. The restaurant, we later learned from her, had been in business here for a long time – and so was its owner. “The business thrives on its Korean and Filipino customers”, she says, with the number of Filipino ones increasing ever since Korean pop culture became popular. Sharon has always been employed by Koreans and has learned how to speak Korean in the process.
Given the chance to go to Korea, she would, of course, “As how anyone would have done so” she added. About the Western foreigners in the district, she noticed how they had the same effect on Filipinos just as how Koreans did. “Filipinos treat foreigners so well”.
Given the chance to go to Korea, she would, of course, “As how anyone would have done so” she added. About the Western foreigners in the district, she noticed how they had the same effect on Filipinos just as how Koreans did. “Filipinos treat foreigners so well”.
I realized the truth in what she said when we strolled through the area later on. Our gazes would follow the towering French man or the pearly-skinned Korean woman as they passed by, in awe. Friendly and hospitable, we are often described by them, always with an open hand to help. It is because we look up to them and where they come from that we often aspire of going overseas. But are other countries really a better option?
The Exchange
With the Korean wave invading our country and everyone started loving Lee Min Ho’s look, came the influx of Korean students and families to the Philippines either to start a business or to study English (as English was essential to finding a job in Korea). Such was the owner of a Korean restaurant and grocery, James Lee, a middle-aged man with thinning black hair, who was open enough to recount his experiences to us over cups of coffee. He explained: the Philippines is a very nice option for them. Geographically, two to three hours is the only thing between this country and theirs. Communication is also an advantage we have with our fluency with English and not to mention the low cost of living we have here.
He then narrated how he had learned to love the Philippines – it was by mere chance that he and his family had migrated here. His company had assigned him to do so. After resigning, ideally, one would go back home to Korea, but twenty years in the Philippines had made their impact. Instead, he set up a business and permanently stayed. “Filipinos are friendly and they’re always happy in the present”, he says, “Very good people. Good to us and a great knowledge of English for easy communication. Cheaper things here too.”
Another foreigner I’ve exchanged a conversation with was George from Philadelphia, USA. My friends and I were going around when the sweet sound of music entered our ears. We followed it and alas, he was playing wonderful music on his trombone – in the middle of the street. His Western looks, besides the fact that he was a huge man wearing a plaid shirt tugged in by a black belt and gray shorts, with a trombone at hand, had attracted quite a crowd. Watching him play several melodies, my curiosity increased and I just had to cut him from performing in order for my questions to be answered.
Apparently, he is here on vacation, two weeks so far and two days left. But what is most amazing is that he has been here eight times. When asked why, he replies,“Because I love the Philippines. I love the food. I love the people. I love the weather. And I love you.” Chuckling at his last comment.
The Other Side of the Fence
These are all examples of how we think that it is always greener on the other side of the fence. We love so much about other countries that we don’t even have any more of it left for our own. In my case, being purely Chinese in blood, but Filipino in citizenship, I tend to identify myself more with the former rather than the latter. Yet, I had grown up here, had all 17 years of my life under the scorching Philippine heat.
What made things even more complicated was my increasing interest in other countries. Japan, Korea, and European countries were what I always dreamed of living in. As a child, and sometimes even now, I had sworn to export myself out of here when I grew up. But I think that has now changed.
What the foreigners told me during this trip had left a mark on me. I, a local citizen that did not have any strong feelings for my own country whatsoever, have encountered foreigners who loved this country away from home. I felt ashamed, but at the same time I thought that maybe it’s because of the ‘greener grass on the other side’ mentality. But that one day of being a tourist in my own country had changed it all.
I now have a new perspective on the Philippines. I explored new places and I realized how little of the Philippines I had covered. I realized how interesting and exciting it could be to go to places I have never been here just as it would be anywhere. And yes, you could say that Sharon, James Lee, and George have unearthed my buried love for the Philippines. I now think that it is greener in my side of the fence, in my country. And yes, I do say my country.
More photos of the trip:
Spicy, but yummy! Food from Donu Pork and Beef Grill.
Such a cute Korean pair doing some grocery shopping at Wang Mart.
Gasp, BIGBANG spotted!
OMG, Beast!
George, drowning us with beautiful music while striking a pose.
all photos were taken by me and are mine.
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